Njengoko umthengisi wefashoni wase-UK Marks & Spencer (M&S) iba yeyomva nje ukuphehlelela uluhlu lweempahla ezilungelelaniswayo ezijolise kubathengi abakhubazekileyo, iingcali zixelela iSitayile nje sokuba kutheni ukumamela abathengi ekujoliswe kubo kubalulekile ekufumaneni le niche kodwa enenzuzo yentengiso.
Ngelixa iimveliso zefashoni zisetyenziselwa ukubonelela ngempahla kubathengi abancinci, abade okanye abanobungakanani obukhulu, isinxibo esilungelelaniswayo kubathengi abanemiba yomzimba ludidi olungamiselwanga kakhulu.
Isinxibo esiguquguqukayo sikholisa ukubandakanya izinto ezilula ukuzisebenzisa endaweni yeziphu kunye namaqhosha kunye nolunye uhlengahlengiso ukwenza kube lula kubathengi abakhubazekileyo ukunxiba.
Kunyaka ophelileyo, iGlobalData's IiNdlela zeMpahla zeNiche kwiMarike yeeMpahla zeHlabathi ingxelo ichaze iimpahla eziguquguqukayo njenge "candelo elikhula ngokukhawuleza", kwaye kuqikelelwa ukuba abathengi be-1.3bn okwangoku baphila nokukhubazeka okubafuna ukuba basebenzise iimpahla eziguqukayo.
Ekuqaleni kwale nyanga (ngo-Agasti) Amanqaku kunye no-Spencer (M & S) bangene kwimarike yempahla eguquguqukayo enenzuzo ngokuba yivenkile yokuqala yase-UK yesitalato esiphezulu e-UK ukongeza iimpahla zangaphantsi kubasebenzisi be-stoma kuluhlu lwayo.
Ezinye iimveliso zefashoni ezibiza kakhulu bezilungiselela le ntengiso ye-niche iminyaka emininzi, njenge-brand yase-US u-Tommy Hilfiger owathi waqala ukuphehlelela uluhlu lwayo lokuziqhelanisa ngo-2016.
Kodwa kutsha nje ukuba abathengisi befashoni bexabiso kunye namagama ezitalatweni eziphakamileyo baye baphonononga iinketho zokuguquguquka, oku kuthetha ukuba imfuno isagqithisa inani leenketho ezikhoyo.
U-Ellie Brown, ophumelele isidanga sefashoni eManchester Met, waqala ishishini lakhe - Recondition - emva kokudinga okwethutyana isitulo esinamavili kwaye wazifumana ekhathazekile ngenxa yokunqongophala kwempahla yokunxiba efumanekayo.
Ecaleni koluhlu olufikelelekayo lwempahla, ngenxa yokusungulwa kamva kulo nyaka, i-Recondition ikwajolise ekwakheni uluntu kunye nabathengi ngokubamba imisitho efikelelekayo kuquka i-catwalks kunye neentetho.
Ukulungiswa kwakhona kusebenzisa izinto ezizinzileyo kwaye kubandakanya ukulungelelaniswa okufana nezibophelelo endaweni yeziphu kunye namaqhosha. UBrown wayenomdla wokuqinisekisa ukuba ukubekwa kweepokotho kunye nemithungo akubangeli ukuphazamiseka kubasebenzisi bezitulo ezinamavili.
Iprojekthi inikwe inkxaso-mali evela kwi-Innovate UK ukunceda ukuzisa iimveliso zayo zokuqala kwintengiso.
Yintoni abathengi abafuna ukuyibona kuluhlu lweempahla eziguqukayo?
Uphando olwenziwe ngumthengisi wefashoni wase-UK uPrimark kunye neZiko loPhando laBathengi abaKhubazayo ekuqaleni kwalo nyaka bafumanise ukuba ngaphezulu kwesiqingatha (59%) banokuthenga iimpahla eziguquguqukayo ngakumbi ukuba ziyafumaneka kubathengisi bezitalato eziphezulu.
Ikwadize ukuba umyinge wama-62% wabo baphila nokukhubazeka e-UK bathi kunzima ukufumana iimpahla abaziva bekhululekile kwaye bonwabile kuzo ngenxa yempilo yabo.
UBrown uxelele iSitayile nje ukuba kubalulekile ukubona iimveliso zesitrato eziphakamileyo ekugqibeleni zilungiselela abathengi abakhubazekileyo.
“Uninzi lweempawu zihlala zoyika kakhulu okanye zingenamdla wokuzama uluhlu oluguquguqukayo ngoko ke akufuneki sityhafise iibrendi ezimbalwa zokuqala ezisezitalatweni eziphezulu ezenza loo nto,” utshilo.
Nangona kunjalo, wongeze ukuba kukho izifundo ekufuneka zifundwe.
Zeziphi iimpazamo ezenziwa ngabavelisi befashoni xa besungula impahla ebandakanyayo?
“Uyazibona iimpazamo ezenziwayo apho, ngokoluvo lwam, iimveliso zingabandakanyi abathengi kuphuhliso lwemveliso okanye ukuqaliswa kwayo ngokubanzi,” ucacise watsho. “Kubalulekile ukubonisana nabo kwinyathelo ngalinye lenkqubo.”
UBrown ucaphule ukuqaliswa kwamva nje koluhlu lwe-Primark oluguqukayo lwempahla yangaphantsi njengomzekelo.
NgoJanuwari 2024, i-Primark yenza uluhlu lwayo lokuqala lwe-lingerie, olubandakanya uluhlu lweebriti kunye neebras eziyilwe ngeefasteners. Iimveliso ngoku ziyafumaneka kwiivenkile ezingama-64 zePrimark - nokuba kusevenkileni okanye ngenkonzo yomthengisi Cofa kwaye uQokelele.
“Ngokungayigcini kuzo zonke iivenkile, iyenza ifikeleleke kwaye igcine imveliso evela kubantu abangaphandle kwezixeko ezikhulu,” utshilo uBrown.
Nangona kunjalo, uBrown uchaza indlela i-M&S eyasungula ngayo impahla yangaphantsi ye-stoma njengebali lempumelelo yokwenyani.
I-knickers ibandakanya ipokotho yangaphakathi yokuxhasa abantu abaphila ne-stoma kunye nombono woyilo ovela kubasebenzi be-M&S abahlala ne-stomas. Oogxa bathumele ingcebiso ngeskim sengcebiso yabasebenzi 'Straight to Stuart' yomthengisi.
Abasebenzi baye bacelwa ukuba bavavanye kwaye bavavanye iimveliso kuyo yonke inkqubo yophuhliso.
UJiggy Sohi, isinxibo kunye nogxa wasekhaya kwi-M&S uchaze: “Kangangeminyaka bendisazi ukuba kukho umsantsa wokwenyani kwimarike yee-stoma knickers kwaye kulo nyaka uphelileyo ndiye ndazakhela ukuzithemba ekwenzeni okuthile ngako.
“Ndiyavuya kuba i-M&S ngoku ingabathengisi bokuqala basesitalatweni esikhulu ukuphehlelela iistoma knickers.”
U-Libby Herbert, i-CEO kwi-charity Colostomy UK, wongeze wathi: "Ukuphehlelelwa kwale mveliso ibandakanyayo kubonisa inyathelo elibalulekileyo lokujongana nesidingo sokufikelela kwiimpahla zangaphantsi ezifumanekayo kwabo baphila ne-stoma's kwaye kuya kubenza bathenge ngokuzithemba nangokukhululeka okokuqala kwisitalato esikhulu saseBritane."
Yintoni elandelayo kwifashoni eguqukayo?
"Xa iimpawu zibandakanya umthengi, utshintsho olumangalisayo lunokwenziwa," kusho uBrown, encoma umthengisi ngokusebenza nabasebenzisi be-stoma kunye neengcali e-Colostomy UK. “Impendulo ibintle kakhulu. Undoqo kukubandakanya abantu obaqulunqayo.”
Ukususela ekuqalisweni koluhlu lwayo lokuqala lwe-lingerie eguquguqukayo ekuqaleni kwalo nyaka, i-Primark isandul 'ukubhengeza intsebenziswano kunye nommeli wokukhubazeka uVictoria Jenkins kunye neempahla eziguquguqukayo ezilindeleke ukuba zilandele.
UJenkins uthe kwisiteyitimenti: "Ngokuqaphela iimfuno zabantu abakhubazekileyo kunye nabagula kakhulu kwaye basebenze ngendlela enentsingiselo kuya kutshintsha ubomi kwizigidi zabantu, kwaye ndonwabile ukusebenzisana noPrimark ukwenza oku kuphile."
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