Ukudalulwa kwesonto eledlule kungene emanzini adungekile ezinqubo zokukhiqiza ezitolo ezinkulu ezihlanganisa i-Adidas, i-H&M, umnikazi we-Uniqlo i-Fast Retailing, i-Nike ephethwe yi-Inditex kanye nesidingo esiphuthumayo sokuziphendulela ekuphishekeleni inzuzo kwemfashini.
Kuleli sonto eledlule, imboni yezemfashini ibilokhu igxekwa kakhulu futhi ibhekisiswa, okuholele ekutheni abantu baziphendulele futhi icele izinguquko.
Ake singene ezindabeni eziyizihloko eziphambili eziphazamise umkhakha futhi sihlole imithelela kumabhrendi, abathengi, kanye nesifiso esibanzi sokusimama.
Lapho izinhlobo zemfashini zihluleka ukuziphendulela
Ibhomu yokuqala yehla ngokudalulwa okusolwayo kubathengisi abaziwayo i-H&M kanye nokuzibandakanya kukaZara ekutholeni ukotini ongcoliswe ukugawulwa kwamahlathi nokuxhashazwa okungekho emthethweni e-Brazil.
Umbiko we-Earthsight udwebe isithombe esibi sabathengisi abakhulu okuthiwa bashaye indiva izindleko zemvelo nezenhlalo zamaketanga abo.
Isambulo sokuthi ukotini, obhalwe ngokuthi 'Osimeme' Ukotini Ongcono, ungalandelelwa emuva ezifundeni ezonakaliswe ukugawulwa kwamahlathi kanye nokuhlukunyezwa kwamalungelo abantu kwaqeda inkohliso yokusetshenziswa kwezimiso zokuziphatha.
Umqondisi we-Earthsight u-Sam Lawson uthe: “Uma unezingubo zikakotini, amathawula noma amashidi ombhede avela kwa-H&M noma e-Zara, angase angcoliswe ukuphangwa kwe-Cerrado. Lezi zinkampani zikhuluma ngemikhuba emihle, isibopho senhlalo kanye nezinhlelo zokunikeza izitifiketi, zithi zitshala imali ekulandeleleni umkhondo nokusimama, kodwa konke lokhu manje kubukeka kuwumgunyathi njengezinhlelo zabo zamafasitela emigwaqo ephakeme. "
Ephendula lezi zinsolo, i-Inditex kanye ne-H&M baphinde bagcizelela ukuzibophezela kwabo ekusekeleni izinqubo ezingcono kakhulu zemboni futhi bazibophezele ekuphenyeni izimangalo ngokucophelela.
Nokho, ukuqinisekiswa nje akwanele. Isenzo esibambekayo, imithetho eqinile, nokuziphendulela kwangempela ezindleleni zemboni yezemfashini kubalulekile ukuze kube noshintsho oluphusile.
U-Lawson uqhube wathi: “Sekucace bha ukuthi ubugebengu obuhlobene nempahla esiyisebenzisayo kufanele kubhekwane nayo ngemithetho, hhayi ukukhetha kwabathengi. Lokho kusho ukuthi abenzi bomthetho emazweni abathengi kufanele babeke imithetho eqinile enomthetho oqinile. Okwamanje, abathengi kufanele bacabange kabili ngaphambi kokuthenga ingubo yabo kakotini elandelayo.”
Iqiniso elimangalisayo liwukuthi ukuphishekela inzuzo ngokuvamile kuza ngenxa yokucekelwa phansi kwemvelo nokuhlupheka kwabantu. Naphezu kwezibopho eziphakeme zokusimama, amabhrendi afana ne-H&M kanye ne-Zara asolwa ngezinsolo zokushiswa luhlaza kanye nokubeka phambili inzuzo ngaphezu kwezimiso.
Ukuziphendulela endaweni ebonakalayo
Ngesikhathi esifanayo, i- I-Corporate Climate Responsibility Monitor 2024 Umbiko ulethe icala labadlali bemfashini abakhulu abahlanu, okuhlanganisa i-Adidas, i-H&M Group, i-Inditex, i-Nike, ne-Fast Retailing.
Ukuhlolwa kombiko wezinhlelo zokunciphisa ukungcoliswa komkhiqizo kanye nokwehluleka ukubhekana nokukhiqizwa ngokweqile kuphinde kwadalula igebe phakathi kokukhuluma nokungokoqobo emhlabeni wemfashini.
Naphezu kokunikeza usizo lomlomo ukuze kusimame, “ayikho neyodwa ezinkampanini ezinhlanu zemfashini ezibophezele ukunciphisa ukukhiqizwa ngokweqile noma ukuqhela endleleni yebhizinisi lemfashini esheshayo,” kusho umbiko.
Ngokombiko, kube nentuthuko ekudaluleni ukukhishwa kwegesi kanye nezinqubo zokubeka imigomo yabathengisi bengqephu abahlanu, kokubili ngokwemigomo yesikhathi esimaphakathi neside.
Kodwa-ke, akukacaci ukuthi lezi zinyathelo ezithathwe izinkampani zizoba negalelo elingakanani ekufezeni izinhloso zazo, nokuthi zizokwanela yini.
Ababhali balo mbiko baphikisa ngokuthi: “Zonke izinkampani ezihloliwe zikhombisa ukwazi ukuthi ziyini izinyathelo ezibalulekile ze-decarbonisation zomkhakha. Kodwa-ke, bethula izindlela zabo ezihleliwe ngendlela engaqondakali. ”
Ezinkampanini ezinhlanu i-H&M Group kanye ne-Nike baphendule isicelo sika-Just Style sokuphawula. Umkhulumeli we-H&M Group ubefisa ukuveza ukuthi imininingwane lapho izinga layo lisuselwa kulo livela Ekuvezeni Okuqhubekayo kwango-2022, hhayi izibalo zakamuva ezishicilelwe ngo-2023 lapho ithole khona ukuncipha ngo-22% kokukhishwa kwe-scope 3 kusukela kwesisekelo sayo sango-2019.
Umkhulumeli we-Adidas utshele u-Just Style kuphela ukuthi i-Adidas izibekele imigomo ka-2025 no-2030 ezosiza umkhawulo wezinkampani ezikhishwayo ezihambisana nebhentshimakhi engu-1.5°C futhi lezi zinhloso zigunyazwe 'uhlelo Lwezinjongo Ezisekelwe Kwesayensi' ('SBTi').
Phakathi nengxoxo yephaneli enesihloko esithi “Iqhaza labathengisi ekwakheni amaketanga okunikezela ngemfanelo” ku-OECD Forum on Due Diligence emkhakheni wezingubo nezicathulo, izinkundla zezinkampani zangaphandle zacelwa ukuthi zibambe iqhaza ngendima yazo ekudaleni udoti wezindwangu kanye nokwenza ngcono iketango lokuhlinzeka labalingani babo bomkhiqizo.
Iphaneli yaqaphela ukuthi abathengisi banesibopho phezu kwama-algorithms abo aku-inthanethi “aphusha abantu ekusetshenzisweni ngokweqile.”
Uhlu lwazo lwaqhubeka: “Sonke siyazi ukuthi ukubuyiselwa kwemali kuyimbangela enkulu yemfucuza kulezi zinsuku ngakho-ke kukhona nomthwalo wemfanelo wezemvelo kubathengisi ukuthi bangayengi abathengi ukuthi bathenge kakhulu bese bebuyisela ingxenye yakho emuva.”
Nakuba amabhrendi eveza ukuzibophezela kwawo kwesimo sezulu kanye nezinhlelo eziluhlaza, ukungabi bikho koshintsho oluphusile nokuziphendulela embonini yezemfashini kuveza ukungabaza okuhlelekile kokuphonsela inselelo isimo esikhona.
Ukuba yisigqila kwemboni yezemfashini kwemfashini esheshayo nokukhiqiza ngokweqile kuyaqhubeka, okubhebhezela umjikelezo wokumosha nokucekelwa phansi kwemvelo.
Indlela yokusebenzela ikusasa elisimeme
Umbiko we-Remake World's Fashion Accountability uveze ukuthi izikhondlakhondla zemboni yezemfashini azenze lutho olutheni ekubhekaneni nemithelela yazo emibi kwezenhlalo nezemvelo onyakeni odlule, naphezu kokukhula kokuqwashisa kanye nokubiza izinguquko.
Lo mbiko wawufundeka kanje: “Lesi simo asisimami, asiveli ngokombono wemvelo, futhi asikho ngokombono webhizinisi. Kuze kube nini imboni inyakaza, ithalenta elomile futhi ihlukumeza imiphakathi nemvelo ethembele kuzo ukuze isebenze?”
Izambulo zesonto eledlule zisebenza njengesikhumbuzo esiqinile sokuthi ukuphishekela inzuzo ngezindleko zabantu neplanethi akusamukeleki: ibhizinisi njengenjwayelo aliseyona inketho. Sekuyisikhathi sokuba izinkampani zikhulume futhi nabalawuli bashaye imithetho eqinile.
Abathengi, futhi, basebenzisa amandla abalulekile ekushintsheni kokushayela. Ngokuvota ngezikhwama zabo zemali kanye nemikhuba yokuziphatha efunwa yimikhiqizo, bangabamba imboni ukuthi iphendule futhi baphushele ukubeka obala okwengeziwe.
Ngokubhekana namaqiniso angakhululekile okukhiqizwa kwemfashini nokwamukela umbono wokusimama, singakha ikusasa lapho isitayela sihambisana nonembeza. Isikhathi sokuthatha isinyathelo manje.
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Umthombo ovela Isitayela Nje
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