Emzamweni wesikhumba esingenasici, esitsha, i-retinoid ivela njengeqhawe le-skincare. Yaziwa ngemiphumela yayo yokuguqula, le nto ephuma kuvithamini A isibe yisisekelo sendlela yobuhle. Kodwa yini ngempela i-retinoid, futhi isebenza kanjani umlingo wayo esikhumbeni sakho? Lo mhlahlandlela ophelele uzohlola isayensi ngemuva kwe-retinoid, izinzuzo zayo, imiphumela engemihle engaba khona, namathiphu okuyifaka ohlelweni lwakho lokunakekelwa kwesikhumba.
Okuqukethwe:
- Iyini i-retinoid?
- Ingabe i-retinoid iyasebenza?
- Izinzuzo ze-retinoid
- Imiphumela emibi ye-retinoid
- Ungayisebenzisa kanjani i-retinoid
- Imikhiqizo yemfashini ephezulu equkethe i-retinoid
Iyini i-retinoid?
I-Retinoid ibhekisela emndenini wezinhlanganisela ezitholakala kuvithamini A, owaziwa ngekhono lawo lokukhuthaza ukuguqulwa kwamangqamuzana nokugqugquzela ukukhiqizwa kwe-collagen. Lezi zinhlanganisela ziyahlukahluka ngamandla nangesimo, kusukela ku-prescription-strength retinoic acid kuya ku-over-the-counter retinol ne-retinaldehyde. Isayensi ngemuva kwe-retinoid ilele emandleni ayo okungena ekujuleni kwesikhumba, lapho ihlangana khona nama-retinoic acid receptors ukuqalisa izinqubo zamaselula ezibalulekile empilweni yesikhumba.
Uhambo lwe-retinoid olusuka ekwelashweni kwezinduna kuya esithakweni esihlonishwayo sokulwa nokuguga aluyona into emangalisa. Ekuqaleni esetshenziselwa ukwelapha izinduna, ngokushesha abacwaningi bathola izici zayo ezinamandla zokulwa nokuguga, okuholela ekwamukelweni kwayo kabanzi ekunakekeleni isikhumba. Ngokusheshisa ukuvuselelwa kwamaseli nokubuyisela emuva izimpawu zokuguga, i-retinoid izuze indawo yayo njengesithako esiyisisekelo embonini yobuhle.
Ukuqonda izinhlobo ezahlukene zama-retinoids kanye namandla awo ahlukene kubalulekile ekukhetheni umkhiqizo ofanele wesikhumba sakho. Ama-retinoids kadokotela afana ne-tretinoin ne-adapalene anikeza imiphumela esheshayo kodwa angase eze nemiphumela engemihle egqame kakhudlwana. Khonamanjalo, izinketho ezitholakala ekhawuntareni njenge-retinol zinikeza enye indlela ethambile, kodwa esebenzayo, yalabo abanesikhumba esibucayi noma abaqalayo ekwelashweni kwe-retinoid.
Ingabe i-retinoid iyasebenza?
Ukusebenza kwe-retinoid ekunakekeleni isikhumba kusekelwa ucwaningo olunzulu lwesayensi, okuyenza ibe ngesinye sezithako ezimbalwa ezaziwayo emhlabeni wonke ngezinzuzo zayo. Ngokukhuthaza ukushintshwa kwamangqamuzana okusheshayo, i-retinoid isiza ekukhipheni amangqamuzana esikhumba afile ngokuphumelelayo, iveze isikhumba esisha, esibushelelezi ngaphansi. Le nqubo ayigcini nje ngokuthuthukisa ukuthungwa kwesikhumba kanye nethoni kodwa futhi isiza ekuvuleni izimbotshana, okwenza i-retinoid ibe ukwelashwa okuphumelelayo kwesikhumba esinezinduna.
Ngaphandle kwamakhono ayo okucwenga, i-retinoid idlala indima ebaluleke kakhulu ekunakekelweni kwesikhumba okulwa nokuguga. Ivuselela ukukhiqizwa kwe-collagen, iphrotheni ebalulekile enikeza isikhumba ukunwebeka nokuqina. Njengoba amazinga e-collagen ehla ngokukhula, isikhumba siqala ukugoba futhi sishwabane. I-Retinoid iphikisana nale nqubo yokuguga yemvelo ngokuthuthukisa i-collagen, ngaleyo ndlela inciphise ukubukeka kwemigqa emihle nemibimbi.
Naphezu kokusebenza kwayo okuqinisekisiwe, imiphumela yokusetshenziswa kwe-retinoid ayisheshi. Ngokuvamile kuthatha amaviki ambalwa kuya ezinyangeni zokusetshenziswa okungaguquki ukuze ubone ukuthuthuka okuphawulekayo ekuthungeni kwesikhumba, ithoni, nokucaca. Ukubekezela nokuphikelela kubalulekile lapho ufaka i-retinoid ohlelweni lwakho lokunakekela isikhumba, njengoba izinzuzo zikufanele ukulinda.
Izinzuzo ze-retinoid
I-Retinoid inikeza inqwaba yezinzuzo esikhumbeni, okwenza kube isengezo esiguquguqukayo kunoma iyiphi inqubo yokunakekelwa kwesikhumba. Inzuzo yayo eyinhloko isemandleni ayo okulwa nezimpawu zokuguga. Ngokwandisa ukukhiqizwa kwamangqamuzana nokukhiqizwa kwe-collagen, i-retinoid inciphisa ngempumelelo imigqa emihle, imibimbi, namabala obudala, okuholela ebusheni obusha, obukhazimulayo.
Kubantu abalwa nezinduna, i-retinoid ingashintsha umdlalo. Izakhiwo zayo zokukhipha i-exfoliating zisiza ukuvimbela ukuvinjelwa kwama-pore, ukunciphisa ukuvela kokugqashuka. Ukwengeza, imiphumela elwa nokuvuvukala ye-retinoid ingadambisa ububomvu nokucasuka, ikhuthaze isikhumba esicacile, esibukeka sinempilo.
I-Retinoid nayo idlala indima ekuthuthukiseni ukuthungwa kwesikhumba kanye nethoni. Ngokususa amangqamuzana esikhumba afile futhi ikhuthaze ukukhula okusha, ingabhekana nezindaba ezinjengamabala anolaka, ithoni yesikhumba engalingani, kanye ne-hyperpigmentation. Umphumela uba isikhumba esibushelelezi, esilingana ngokulinganayo esikhazimula ngaphakathi.
Imiphumela emibi ye-retinoid
Ngenkathi i-retinoid igujwa ngemiphumela yayo yokuguqula, ayinayo imiphumela emibi engaba khona. Okuvame kakhulu kufaka ukoma, ukuxebuka, ububomvu, nokucasuka, ikakhulukazi phakathi namasonto okuqala okusetshenziswa njengoba isikhumba silungisa. Le miphumela engemihle ivamise ukuba mnene futhi ingalawulwa ngezinqubo zokunakekela isikhumba ezifanele, ezifana nokwethulwa kancane kancane kanye nokuswakama okungaguquki.
Kwabanye abantu, ikakhulukazi labo abanesikhumba esibucayi, i-retinoid ingabangela ukusabela okuvelele. Ezimweni ezinjalo, kubalulekile ukubonisana nodokotela wesikhumba ukuze anqume uhlobo olufaneleka kakhulu nokugxila kwe-retinoid. Ukwengeza, i-retinoid ingakhuphula ukuzwela kwesikhumba ekukhanyeni kwelanga, okwenza kudingeke ukusebenzisa i-sunscreen nsuku zonke ukuvikela emonakalweni we-UV.
Kuyafaneleka futhi ukuqaphela ukuthi i-retinoid ayinconywa kwabesifazane abakhulelwe noma abancelisayo ngenxa yengozi yokukhubazeka kokuzalwa. Ezinye izithako zokunakekelwa kwesikhumba zingasetshenziswa ngalesi sikhathi ukugcina impilo yesikhumba ngaphandle kwezingozi ezihlobene nokusetshenziswa kwe-retinoid.
Ungayisebenzisa kanjani i-retinoid
Ukufaka i-retinoid ohlelweni lwakho lokunakekelwa kwesikhumba kudinga indlela ecatshangelwayo yokwandisa izinzuzo zayo kuyilapho unciphisa imiphumela emibi engaba khona. Qala ngokusebenzisa inani le-pea lomkhiqizo we-retinoid ukuhlanza, isikhumba esomile kanye noma kabili ngesonto, kancane kancane ukwandisa imvamisa njengoba isikhumba sakho sakha ukubekezelelana. Kungcono ukusebenzisa i-retinoid kusihlwa, njengoba ingabhidlika futhi ingasebenzi kahle lapho ichayeke elangeni.
Ukumatanisa i-retinoid ne-moisturizer kungasiza ekwehliseni ukoma nokucasuka. Gcoba i-hydrating moisturizer ngemuva kokuthi i-retinoid isingene ngokuphelele esikhumbeni ukuze ivale umswakama futhi ivikele umgoqo wesikhumba. Ukwengeza, njengoba i-retinoid ikhulisa ukuzwela kwe-photosensitivity, ukusebenzisa isikrini selanga esibanzi njalo ekuseni kubalulekile ukuvimbela ukulimala kwelanga.
Ukulalela isikhumba sakho kubalulekile uma usebenzisa i-retinoid. Uma ubhekana nokoma okukhulu noma ukucasuka, nciphisa imvamisa yohlelo noma ushintshele ekugxiliseni okuphansi. Ngokubekezela nokunakekelwa okufanele, ungajabulela izinzuzo ezimangalisayo ze-retinoid ngaphandle kokubeka engcupheni impilo yesikhumba sakho.
Imikhiqizo esezingeni eliphezulu equkethe i-retinoid
Yize izinhlobo ezithile zingashiwongo, imakethe igcwele imikhiqizo emisha ye-retinoid eklanyelwe ukubhekelela izinhlobo ezahlukahlukene zesikhumba nokukhathazeka. Lezi zisukela kumaserum nokhilimu kuye emafutheni, ngayinye yakhelwe ukuletha izinzuzo ezinamandla ze-retinoid ngenkathi iqinisekisa ukucasuka okuncane. Imikhiqizo ye-retinoid ethandwayo ivamise ukufaka izithako ezengeziwe njenge-hyaluronic acid, i-ceramides, ne-niacinamide ukuze kukhuliswe ukugeleza kwamanzi, ukulungisa umgoqo wesikhumba, nokukhanyisa ibala.
Ukukhetha umkhiqizo ofanele we-retinoid kuncike kuhlobo lwesikhumba sakho, ukukhathazeka, kanye nezinga lokubekezelelana. Abasaqalayo bangakhetha ukuthenga i-over-the-counter retinol noma imikhiqizo ye-retinaldehyde, enikeza isingeniso esithambile sokwelashwa kwe-retinoid. Abasebenzisi abanolwazi olunzulu noma labo abanenkinga ethile yesikhumba bangase bazuze ezinkethweni zamandla kadokotela, ezinikeza imiphumela esheshayo.
Kungakhathalekile ukuthi yimuphi umkhiqizo owukhethayo, ukungaguquguquki kuyisihluthulelo sokufeza nokugcina imiphumela yokuguqula ye-retinoid. Ngoxhaxha olubanzi lwemikhiqizo ye-retinoid esesitayeleni etholakalayo, ukuthola ehambisana nezidingo zakho zokunakekelwa kwesikhumba nokuncamelayo akukaze kube lula.
Isiphetho: I-Retinoid ime njengensika endaweni ye-skincare, ihlonishwa ngenxa yekhono layo elingenakuqhathaniswa lokuvuselela, ukucacisa, nokuvikela isikhumba. Kungakhathaliseki ukuthi ufuna ukunciphisa izimpawu zokuguga, ukulwa nezinduna, noma ukuthuthukisa ukuthungwa okuphelele kwesikhumba sakho kanye nethoni, i-retinoid inikeza isisombululo esifakazelwe. Ngokuqonda izinzuzo zayo, ukuphatha imiphumela engemihle engaba khona, nokuyifaka ngendlela efanele ohlelweni lwakho lokunakekela isikhumba, ungavula amandla aphelele alesi sithako esinamandla. Yamukela uhambo oluya esikhumbeni esikhazimulayo, esisha esine-retinoid - isikhumba sakho sizokubonga.
