I-London Fashion Week isisonge umbukiso wayo we-Autumn/Winter 2023, inikeze imboni yezemfashini ukunambitheka kokuthi yini eseduze kwezimpahla zabesifazane kanye nezinsiza. Njengenjwayelo, iLondon yaletha umuzwa wayo wokusayina wokuqamba nokuvukela kuma-catwalks. Kule sizini abaklami babone kokubili ubufazi obuphefumulelwe kabusha kanye nezinkomba ze-edgy punk emaqoqweni abo. Izitayela eziyinhloko zazihlanganisa izingubo ezihlotshiswe ngomnsalo, ukuphrinta kwezimpawu zesiphithiphithi, izingubo zangaphandle zesikhumba namabhuzu e-luxe aqinile.
Ngokugqamisa okuhlanganisa ukugcizelela kweleyisi ezithombeni zegraffiti, iLondon Fashion Week inikeze okuthile ngesitayela sawo wonke umuntu wesifazane. Qhubeka ufunda ukuze uthole umhlahlandlela wangaphakathi wamathrendi aphezulu ongawalindela njengoba sidlulela ekwindla.
Okuqukethwe:
1. I-Retro femininity yenza ukubuya
2. Imininingwane ephefumulelwe ngamapunk yengeza unqenqema
3. Ukwakheka nokuthinta kuyisihluthulelo
4. Isikhumba sihola ezintweni
5. Amajazi athatha indawo emaphakathi
6. Amabhuzu athola izibuyekezo ezinzima
I-7. Imicabango yokugcina
I-Retro femininity yenza ukubuya
Amavayibhu e-retro abenamandla kuma-catwalks ase-London e-Autumn/Winter 2023. Abaklami bahlole ama-silhouette ajwayelekile njengabesifazane kanye nemininingwane nge-twist yase-nostalgic. Izingubo zetiye zaba nesimo sakudala ngokuphrinta kwezimbali okumnandi, ukumbozwa ngentambo kanye nezintambo zentamo. Ukuze uthole ukuthintwa kwesimanjemanje, ama-hemlines aflounced nemikhono ye-puff ibuyekeze umumo we-retro. Ama-minidresses aphefumulelwe yi-Mod nawo enze ukubonakala, athola ukubukeka okusha kusukela kolayini bentamo namasheke noma ukuphrinta kwezithombe.
Ibhulawuzi elifana nelady lingenye indawo ongangena kuyo ku-retro femininity. Bheka imigqa ye-bow necklines, umbhishobhi kanye nemikhono yensimbi, kanye nobuciko obuthambile obufana nosilika nama-sheers. Uma wenza isitayela, faka amabhulawuzi eziketini zepensela ezinokhalo oluphezulu noma amabhulukwe anomlenze obanzi ukuze uthole iseluleko sepholishi ye-1950s-esque. Kubathengisi, ukugxila kuthenga amabhulawuzi emikhono ekota yesithathu kanye nezitayela ezihlukahlukene eziphrintiwe zezimbali ezingahlanganisa usuku nosuku.
Ngaphandle kwezingubo namabhulawuzi, amajazi nezingubo zangaphandle nazo zifakwe ku-retro. Ama-silhouette ajikijelwayo, ubude bejazi likaphizi olunqanyuliwe namakholomu amakhulu kakhulu konke okubhekiselwe kuma-1960s. I-Luxe wool kanye nama-herringbone tweed akhuphule isimo sengqondo sakudala. Ukuze kuqedwe yesimanje, abaklami ngezinye izikhathi accented nge hardware oversized. Uma uthengisa amajazi, hlose ukuthola imibala ehlukahlukene engathathi hlangothi njengekamela nokumpunga ahumusha umumo we-retro ube yizicucu ezigqokekayo.
Emkhakheni we-accessory, bheka iminsalo, amaparele nezikhwama zesibambo eziphezulu ezifana ne-lady ukuze ugcwalise ukubukeka kwabesifazane. Kodwa gwema ukwenza isitayela esiphendukela endaweni yemvunulo. Gcina amasilhouette esimanjemanje futhi uhlanganise nezinsiza ezincane ukuze ugcine izithenjwa ze-retro zizintsha. Ngokulingana okulungile kwe-nostalgia kanye nokuguquguquka, ubufazi obuphefumulelwe kabusha bunikeza inkambiso efudumele nenethemba lekwindla.
Imininingwane ephefumulelwe ngamapunk yengeza unqenqema
Umoya wokuhlubuka wase-London wagqama ku-catwalks ngesitayela se-punk-inspired enezela indawo ephikisayo kumathrendi esizini abesifazane. Uphawu lwesiphithiphithi lwenze uphawu lwalo njengengqikithi yokuphrinta eyisihluthulelo, ebonwa ezingutsheni, amajazi kanye nezinsiza. Amasheke kanye nama-plaid enyathi agqamile amnyama namhlophe nawo angene othandweni lwama-punk lwamaphethini ashayisanayo.
Ubuhle be-DIY be-Punk bubonakale eziqongweni ezingakhiwe kanye nokuqedwa okungaphekiwe. Izindwangu ezicindezelekile, imiphetho engaqediwe kanye nemithungo evalekile yanikeza izingcezu zansuku zonke i-twist engajwayelekile. Lesi siqondiso singahumushela kalula ku-shirting ngokukhetha izinkinobho ezingalingani, isitayela esicindezelekile kanye nokuphrinta kwegraffiti okugqamile. Uma uthengisa, hlanganisa nedenim emnyama ezacile noma isikhumba se-rock n' roll vibe ebabazekayo.
Izindwangu zesikhumba ne-vinyl ziyizinketho zemvelo zokwengeza isimo sengqondo se-punk. Yenza amabhantshi ebhayisikili azizwe emisha ngokukhetha ama-silhouette amade abuyekeziwe. Noma thula isitayela se-punk kumasilhouette wesifazane njengezingubo ezilingana nezigqamile ezinephaneli yesikhumba enemininingwane. Imihlobiso ye-Hardware nensimbi nayo isiza ukuthwebula umoya we-punk. Uma uthengisa izingubo zesikhumba nezinsiza, gxila kokwakudala kwekhabethe elimnyama nokumpunga ukuze uqinisekise ukuguquguquka nokuphila isikhathi eside.
Nakuba abaklami baseLondon bamukele ngokugcwele i-punk, ibhalansi iwukhiye kubathengisi. Gwema ukudlala i-punk noma i-grunge ngokugcwele. Kunalokho, khetha i-elementi eyodwa noma ezimbili njengejakhethi yebhayisikili noma i-denim engakhiwe ukuze uhlanganise isimo sengqondo se-punk sibe ukubukeka okugqokekayo. I-Pop punk ithinta ku-assortments evamile kanye nokuhlelwa kwehhovisi okungajwayelekile okuhlakaniphile ukusiza abesifazane bengeze umphetho ocashile ku-wardrobe yabo. Ngesitayela esicophelelayo, izinkomba ze-punk zingafaka injabulo ku-assortment yezitolo zasekwindla/ebusika.
Ukwakheka nokuthinta kuyisihluthulelo
Izindwangu ezinothile nezindwangu ezithintekayo zigqame emigwaqweni yezindiza yaseLondon, zinikeza omunye umzila wokuvuselela izinhlobonhlobo zezitolo zasekwindla/ebusika. Ukunitha kwekhebula, ama-herringbone tweed kanye nezindwangu zoboya be-faux kunikeze ukukhanga kokuthinta okulingwayo kuyilapho kuletha imfudumalo eduduzayo.
Amajazi abonise ngobuningi be-TEXTURES. I-Tweed, i-wool meltons nama-alpacas axutshwe adlulisele ukukhanga okuyigugu. Phakathi naleso sikhathi, amakhola oboya mbumbulu kanye nama-linings aletha ubusha nokuthambile. Uma uthengisa amajazi, bheka lawo aklanywe ngezindwangu zombhalo njengama-tweed nama-wool boucles ukuze ahambisane nalo mkhuba.
I-tactile threndi iphinde inikeze ithuba lokugqamisa izingubo zokugqoka. Khetha izinti zekhebula, izithungo ze-aran, izindwangu ze-jacquard kanye nokuthungwa okubhulashiwe lapho uthenga izindwangu. Ngenisa isikhalo sokuthinta ngemininingwane ejabulisayo efana nothayi be-pompom, ukunqunywa kwama-fringe kanye nama-fluffy mohair blends. Ukubonisa ama-knit ngokuthungwa kunokuba nje umbala ezitolo kuzosiza ukudlulisa ukugxila kwale threndi ekuthinteni.
Izesekeli zokuthungwa neziluniwe njengezikhafu ezinkulu, amabhontshisi namagilavu angenamunwe kuyindlela elula yokufaka ubuciko ezimpahleni zasekwindla. Noma hlanganisa ukuthungwa ngaphakathi kwezimpahla, ukubhanqa izingubo zangaphandle ze-tweed namajezi aluka ikhebula nezigqoko zoboya mbumbulu. Uma udala izibonisi ezithintekayo, dlulela ngale kwama-racks ajwayelekile empophoma ukuze udlulise ngobuciko ukuthinta nokuzwakala. Izibonisi zethebula ezinamasampuli okuthintwa kanye nezibonelo zezingubo zizothwebula indlela yokuphimisa ethintekayo yesizini.
Isikhumba sihola ezintweni
Isikhumba sivele njengento evelele emigwaqweni yezindiza yaseLondon. Abaklami bamukele isikhumba kuzo zonke izigaba, besisebenzisa ukuze bakhe izingubo zangaphandle ezinhle nezicucu eziphefumulelwe nge-punk ngokufanayo.
Kubathengisi, amajazi esikhumba anikeza isikhalazo esiqinile sokuhweba. Bheka ama-silhouette abuyekeziwe afana nobude be-midi namahlombe aqinile. Imininingwane ethakazelisayo efana ne-corset lacing, ama-grommets ensimbi kanye ne-quilting isiza ukuvuselela ijazi lesikhumba. Okuthengiswayo ngama-core hues afana nomnyama, ikamela nokubomvu ukuze kuqinisekiswe ukuguquguquka.
Amabhulukwe esikhumba nawo ayegcwele abantu abahamba ngezinyawo. Ukugxila kuthenga kuma-leggings ama-slim noma ama-silhouette emilenze ebanzi ukuze iqondaniswe nezitayela zamanje. Amabhulukwe anemininingwane okhalo ethokozisayo, ukulecingwa emaceleni noma ukuthunga ngemoto athwebula ivayibhu yendlela yezindiza. Bonisa ibhulukwe lesikhumba njengento eyisisekelo ephakeme.
Isiketi sesikhumba singenye into eyisihluthulelo. Kusukela kuma-punk mini ukuya kuziketi zepensela ze-midi ezinjengowesifazane, iziketi zesikhumba izitayela ezinwetshiwe. Lapho uthenga, namathela kumasilhouette afana no-A-line noma izitayela ezifika emadolweni eziguquka kalula ukusuka emini ukuya ebusuku. Okumnyama nokunsundu kuhlala kumaphakathi kwesikhumba.
Ngaphandle kwezingubo, izesekeli zesikhumba nazo zanqoba eLondon. Amabhuzu, amabhande, amagilavu nezikhwama zezandla zafika ngesikhumba se-premium ukuze kuthathwe okucolisisiwe. Lapho uthengisa, bonisa izimpahla zesikhumba ndawonye ukuze ukhanyise indaba ebalulekile. Ngokukhanga okubanzi kuzo zonke izinhlobo zabantu, isimo sesikhumba esifiselekayo sikwenza kube ukubheja okuhlakaniphile kwezinhlobonhlobo zezitolo zasekwindla/ebusika.
Amajazi athatha indawo emaphakathi
Izingubo zangaphandle zibambe iqhaza eliphambili ku-London catwalks ye-Autumn/Winter 2023. Abaklami babonise uchungechunge lwamajazi aqanjwe kabusha, izindwangu ezingajwayelekile kanye nemininingwane edonsa amehlo.
Amahlombe ehaba nama-silhouette acwebile akhombe ukugqoka kwamandla wama-80s, kudala amajazi esitatimende aqinile. Abathengisi bangakwazi ukwethula umkhuba ngokusebenzisa amajazi oboya anamabele amabili anamahlombe aphinyisiwe. Ukuze uthole ugqozi oluqinile, bheka kumabhrendi agxile kumvelo esebenzisa amapulasitiki agaywe kabusha nezindwangu ezingajwayelekile ukuze udale izimo zejazi le-avant-garde.
Izitayela zamagugu njengamajazi opolo, amajazi ama-duffle namajazi omsele avele emigwaqweni yezindwangu ezibuyekeziwe njenge-vinyl noboya be-faux. Thenga lawa maphrofayili ejazi lakudala kuzindwangu eziqondisayo noma imininingwane ukuze uhlanganise ubuhlakani obusha nesiko.
Ubude bejazi buyahlukahluka kusukela kumasilhouette anqanyuliwe, angaphezulu kwedolo kuya kuzitayela ezinkulu ezishanelayo. Ubude be-Midi bazizwa buqondisa kakhulu emigwaqweni yaseLondon. Lapho uthengisa, bonisa amajazi anobude obuhlukene ndawonye ukuze ubonise ukuhlukahluka.
Izinto zokuqinisa ezithakazelisayo njengokuvalwa kwe-asymmetric, othayi bezintambo kanye nezingxenyekazi zekhompiyutha ezinobukhulu obungaphezu komsebenzi ongeziwe kanye nokugqama. Bheka amajazi anemininingwane yobuchwepheshe kanye nokusebenza abuye axoxe indaba yomkhiqizo.
Khomba ukuxoxa indaba yejazi lapho uthengisa izingubo zangaphandle kulekwindla. Dlula ngale kwezibonisi ezijwayelekile ezimnyama. Bonisa injabulo yoboya be-maximalist faux eduze kwama-tweed amagugu nezikhumba ezihlakaniphile ukuze kukhanye indima yenkanyezi yezingubo zangaphandle.
Amabhuzu athola izibuyekezo ezinzima ze-luxe
Izicathulo ezithrendayo emigwaqweni nasemigwaqweni yezindiza kule sizini zifika ngendlela yamabhuzu aqinile. Abaklami baphakamise ama-silhouette e-boot ayisisekelo anezinto zokunethezeka ne-edgy hardware ukuze abukeke ngendlela eqondile kodwa egqokekayo.
Amabhuzu e-Lug sole combat boots nezitayela zokugibela zingena kuthrendi eqhubekayo yezokusubatha. Thenga lawa maphrofayili ebhuthi ajwayelekile ngesikhumba se-luxe kunezindwangu zezemidlalo ukuze uwanikeze umkhawulo ocolisisiwe. Isibonisi esinemini yasemini sibukeka njengebhulukwe lesikhumba namaluni anezimbambo.
Amabhuzu angaphezulu kwamadolo athathe ushintsho oluhle kakhulu lwesikhumba esicwebezelayo selungelo lobunikazi noma izithende ze-perspex. Yenza lokhu kugqame ngezibonisi ngeziketi nezigqoko zokubhanqa. Izitayela zomthombo ezingenazo izingxenyekazi zekhompuyutha eziningi kakhulu zokusebenzisa izinto ezihlukahlukene.
Amabhuzu okugibela ajwayelekile abuyekezwa ngamasoli aminyene namabhakede. Bheka izitayela zamahhashi esikhumbeni esihle sase-Italy ukuze ukhange abagqoki be-boho. Okuthengiswayo njengehhashi lomsebenzi lekhabetheni elishintsha ukusuka ngempelasonto ukuya ehhovisi.
Gwema noma yimaphi ama-avant-garde noma amabhuzu aphefumulelwe imvunulo. Ukugxila kuthenga kuma-twist esimanje kuya kumasilhouette akudala avela kumabhrendi athembekile. Indawo emnandi yabathengisi amabhuzu alinganisa izakhi zemfashini nokugqokwa okubalulekile nokusebenza. Bonisa amabhuzu e-luxe aqinile eduze kwamajazi enziwe ngendlela efanele kanye nezinsiza eziwubukhazikhazi ukuze udlulise unqenqema lwazo olukabili. Ngamabhuzu enzelwe ukuhamba, ukuhambahamba nokugijima edolobheni lonke, lo mkhuba uhlanganisa indlela yokuphila kanye nenani lentengo.
Imicabango yokugcina
I-London Fashion Week inikeze ngobuhlakani ubuhlakani obuhambisana ne-retro ladylike polish ye-Autumn/Winter 2023. Kusukela kumaphrinti ophawu lwesiyaluyalu kuya ezigqokweni zetiye eziboshiwe, abaklami bahlole yomibili imiphetho yesitayela sabesifazane. Izindwangu ezithintekayo, izingcezu zesikhumba ezibuyekeziwe kanye nezingubo zangaphandle ezivelele zanelisa isifiso sokunethezeka, ikhwalithi kanye nokuziveza ezikhathini ezineziyaluyalu.
Ama-catwalks aseLondon anikeza ugqozi olwanele lokuvuselela iminikelo yasekwindla/ebusika. Bheka ukuthinta ama-punkish njengedenim engakhiwe ukuze ufake injabulo engutsheni evamile. Shayela ingubo yetiye ye-retro nezingubo zangaphandle zakudala ukuze ulethe ithemba nokuthakazelisa ekugqokeni okunezinhlobonhlobo. Hlanganisa lezi zindlela ezihlukile njengoba iLondon yenza lokho ngobuciko-ibhulawuzi elifana nelikamama elinophawu lwesiphithiphithi, isiketi sesikhumba esinezesekeli zokuqhakaza kwabesifazane. Amathuba nezinhlanganisela akupheli uma ugcina ingqondo evulekile nomoya wokuvukela kokudala.
